If you have been following, I have written about Ematei before - by far our favourite and most frequented restaurant in the city. Tonight, we had a different sort of experience that was so amazing I couldn't resist but share. Last I wrote about this restaurant, I shared my obsession with the hot pot, the ultimate Winter comfort food. We have other favourites as well, but we always have it with the hot pot (it definitely requires more people to share).
Without ordering hot pot, we had stomach room to try other things on the menu. We noticed a "special" sign on the wall tonight for a matsutake (mushroom) soup - we love mushrooms and we love soup, so how could we resist? In a restaurant full of delicious tapas under $10, I was expecting this $20 mushroom soup to be a big bowl; in reality, everything about this dish surprised us. The waitress told us that this was a unique soup made from rare pine mushrooms found only in Winter. The soup was a flavourful simmered broth of pine mushrooms, scallops and shrimp. It was served in a small teapot accompanied by little cups - the unique presentation allowed us to enjoy the soup throughout our meal in small portions, and each taste left us wanting more. A truly worthwhile and unique experience. Fresh pine mushroom are apparently very rare in North America, so we were doubly impressed that Ematei had the delicacy.
In addition to small portions of sushi and sashimi, we also had oden. I LOVE oden, and first experienced it at Ematei. This is also a Japanese Winter dish consisting of assorted fish cakes, daikon and boiled eggs served in a light broth. I think of it as a mini hot pot! We also had eringi butter (king mushroom), grilled black cod, and for the first time here, savoury egg custard. Tony and I had an unforgettable egg custard while in Japan last year at a restaurant that served food from the Hokkaido region, made with bits of roe and tako. It was just the right blend of flavours. Ematei's was made with traces of mushroom, shrimp, artificial crab meat and topped with orange zest. As always, we were happy to have a taste of something from Japan that we have not had at any other Japanese restaurant. And the night got better! For the first time, we actually had room for dessert, and I cannot believed we have missed out for TWO YEARS. We had anmitsu, a jelly and fruit mix served with red bean paste and (we were told) best with ice cream (black sesame was our flavour of choice). Although I recognized the name, I was not sure what this dessert was; in fact, we had it at a delicious izakaya restaurant in Shibuya on our last night in Japan....needless to say, I was elated to see this recognizable dish arrive! We also enjoyed a unique mochi, which we had not tasted before - it was freshly made sticky rice cake, rolled in what I think is ground soybean powder and served with a light syrup. Although we thought we were quite full already, we practically inhaled the entire plate. It was light and the perfect way to finish our meal. That is definitely going on the favourite list!
I regret that we didn't take any pictures tonight because our meal was so beautiful, from the mushroom soup teapot, the small oden ceramic hot pot to our cup of egg custard! Since I have shared my love of Ematei in the past, I was not planning to blog about our meal; but it was a different kind of experience for us that included pleasant reminders of Japan and also new tastes worth sharing. I think we will be back again shortly and perhaps then I can update with pics! We have a new completion goal to try everything on the menu, we don't want to miss out on anything. Think we can do it!?
Sunday, November 29, 2009
Butter Chicken of the Sea at Bread Bar!
I pass Bread Bar on my way to and from work everyday. Tony and I finally decided to try it sometime last year. I did not have this blog at the time, but let me tell you, it was an unforgettable meal! It is a bustling restaurant that is great for groups/parties. You may be lucky to have your own table, or be seated at the long communal table - either way, the ambiance is warm and friendly.
On our return visit last night, the first thing I looked for was the "butter chicken of the sea" I affectionately remembered from our initial visit - lobster and prawn in the same makhani sauce. I remember the taste fondly and couldn't wait to have it. Imagine my disappointment to find it was not on the menu. I read and re-read the menu several times before resigning to the fact that the must have replaced this dish with the seafood curry. Of course, I was not ready to give up on the single dish I had returned for so we asked the waiter....and I was THRILLED that it was available, a "special" not on the regular menu. Aren't I glad I asked! I especially loved being able to order something not on the menu...has some kind of insider exclusivity to it.
In addition to the deliciously rich lobster and prawn, we also had a lime lamb shank curry, a nice contrast to the flavours of the makhani sauce, and also saag panner - a spinach and rapini puree with paneer (Indian unsalted cheese). All of this served with basmati rice and garlic naan of course. Bread Bar is actually so named for some of its unique naan offerings, but we were so overwhelmed with the mains already that we ended up going minimal with our accompaniment and sticking to the basics. There's always next time!
Bread Bar is a lovely choice for an indulgent Indian dinner, and probably better celebrated with friends (so you can try more food of course!). It is part of the Amaya group of restaurants, which I have yet to try the others, but I'm sure the name and taste is familiar to some of you. Remember to ask for the butter chicken of the sea - I didn't make the name up, I swear that was on the menu last time!
Bread Bar is a lovely choice for an indulgent Indian dinner, and probably better celebrated with friends (so you can try more food of course!). It is part of the Amaya group of restaurants, which I have yet to try the others, but I'm sure the name and taste is familiar to some of you. Remember to ask for the butter chicken of the sea - I didn't make the name up, I swear that was on the menu last time!
Monday, November 9, 2009
Savouring True Meat Flavours at Cowbell
We often rely on Toronto Life's best restaurant list for our adventures. Last year, we made our way to Cowbell and were excited to discover a unique bistro experience - the restaurant buys their meat locally, butchers their own animals and sustainably aims to use all parts. It's a small operation involved vertically in the entire food process. The feature there, of course, is meat, with a menu that changes constantly depending on what they have brought in. On our first visit, I had the Cowbell burger. Normally, I would never order a burger, but the lady next to us told me it was the best burger she had ever had, so how could I turn that down? As I recall, it was indeed an amazing burger, with bacon and topped with Quebec cheese. That experience had left me wanting another bite so we made the trek to far Queen West again last night with our friends James and Lisa.
The Cowbell menu is found on a chalkboard in the restaurant, with an assortment of appetizers and mains - I caution vegetarians that this is not the place for you, although there are some minimal choices! What I love most about Cowbell is that the chef really celebrates and highlights the natural flavours of meats - no fancy sauces, just delicate cooking and handling that brings out the best of beef, duck, pork and the like. Last night, Tony and I did the butcher's plate to start - an assortment of terrine, pate, liver and hearts. I had the angus beef with bone marrow as my main, served with a side of wild mushrooms and leeks - the beef was AMAZING. I can't tell you how disappointed we have been with beef in Toronto in general, but this was just perfectly medium rare and tender. Tony had pork, which again was very simple, highlighting the natural taste of pork, tasty, but less amazing than my beef. I miss the carpaccio we had on our first visit, very basic rare beef slices served with nothing and yet, tasted better than any carpaccio we have ever had. It is truly a sign of good fresh meat and good preparation. We had creme caramel with blackberry compote for dessert, which was rich and satisfying, but truly, the highlight of the restaurant is the meats, so invest your bellies in that!
Cowbell is a great place for anyone who loves food and loves meat. Don't think of it as a heavy "meaty" place - I made that mistake at first, delaying our visit there, but it really is a foodie destination, so you can appreciate fine preparation and simple yet delicious tastes.
The Cowbell menu is found on a chalkboard in the restaurant, with an assortment of appetizers and mains - I caution vegetarians that this is not the place for you, although there are some minimal choices! What I love most about Cowbell is that the chef really celebrates and highlights the natural flavours of meats - no fancy sauces, just delicate cooking and handling that brings out the best of beef, duck, pork and the like. Last night, Tony and I did the butcher's plate to start - an assortment of terrine, pate, liver and hearts. I had the angus beef with bone marrow as my main, served with a side of wild mushrooms and leeks - the beef was AMAZING. I can't tell you how disappointed we have been with beef in Toronto in general, but this was just perfectly medium rare and tender. Tony had pork, which again was very simple, highlighting the natural taste of pork, tasty, but less amazing than my beef. I miss the carpaccio we had on our first visit, very basic rare beef slices served with nothing and yet, tasted better than any carpaccio we have ever had. It is truly a sign of good fresh meat and good preparation. We had creme caramel with blackberry compote for dessert, which was rich and satisfying, but truly, the highlight of the restaurant is the meats, so invest your bellies in that!Cowbell is a great place for anyone who loves food and loves meat. Don't think of it as a heavy "meaty" place - I made that mistake at first, delaying our visit there, but it really is a foodie destination, so you can appreciate fine preparation and simple yet delicious tastes.
Saturday, October 31, 2009
Paris 2009: We Made it to the Louvre, and Our Last Meal in Paris
It's been weeks since we returned from Paris, seems like a lifetime away that we were enjoying the food and sights of France. The great thing about vacation is that you can choose to do things and live the way you dream of, but not may be feasible in everyday life. To sleep in til noon and have amazing French meals everyday was a dream come true for us.On our last day, we made our way into a museum after all - none other than the Louvre. I think it was our most visited place this trip, through the gardens, the courtyard, and finally a fast look inside as well (not to worry travelers, we have been before!). We did the speed tour to start: Mona Lisa, Winged Victory and Venus de Milo, seeing favourites along the way such as the Wedding at Cana. We eventually made our way to the Rubens Room, an amazing exhibit of21 paintings commissioned by Marie de'Medici, wife of King Henry IV of France.
We stopped for lunch at Cafe Marly, as recommended by our friend Stella. We were saving it for our "last meal" because we wanted to make sure we left Paris with an amazing meal to remember. Cafe Marly did not disappoint - sitting under the elevated arches of the Louvre and facing the pyramids. In the cool fall weather, the experience was sublime. We started with a king crab guacamole salad - the king crab was meaty and fresh and tasted like it was just cracked out of the shell. 
For mains, I had a delicious prawn risotto and Tony had steak. Before this trip, I did not know that prawn risotto was such an amazing French dish, from our delicious first meal at Coup d'Etat, to this last meal at Cafe Marly, the prawns were delicious and like nothing I have tasted before. The steak was not extraordinary, but the bernaise sauce was amazing...heart stopping, but amazing. We left with our bellies full and happy. We managed to sneak in another couple rooms at the Louvre before it was time to leave.The Louvre is possibly the most beautiful building in the world, housing the most amazing collection of art and history, plus an delicious meal...not a bad way to say good bye to the City of Lights.
Saturday, October 17, 2009
Paris 2009: We're Not Meant to Visit Any Museums on This Trip...
Day 8: We started the day with an incredible lunch at Priori, suggested by Tony's friend Megan last night. I clutched onto her hand sketched map and found our way to this "secret" location - not likely secret for locals, but having walked the area for the last week, I can't believe we had no idea it existed! First we walked through the garden in the courtyard of the Palais Royale, which we did not know we were allowed in. After passing through the garden and a number of small shops, we came onto rue Vivienne and finally the cute gallerie Vivienne! The restaurant is a little cafe with tables taking up half the narrow walkway under the glass dome, a nice way to enjoy the sun on a cold day! I had the plat du jour, a rich bean soup served with guacamole and salad. A totally unlikely combo in my mind, but was good, trust! I really dislike beans and actually had no idea what was in the soup initially, but decided to order it after seeing it arrive on our neighbours' tables. The rosey, savoury soup was very good indeed, despite the beans :P It really hit the spot for the cooler weather we've been having! Tony had an amazing pasta with mushrooms, served as a salad with plenty of cheese. We loved having lunch in this quiet not-so-tourist spot - delicious and quaint, the kind of place we wish we could visit everyday to enjoy a long leisurely lunch.
Paris has a museum for everything and everywhere, but we haven't made it to any on this trip, always waiting for a rainy day to do indoor stuff. At the tower yesterday, I noticed a fashion museum I had not seen before: the Musee Galliera, housing the evolution of fashion through the years and its significance to the city. We chose this one over the fashion and textile museum close to the Louvre since the building exterior was so beautiful, not knowing much about either. We made our way to the lovely renaissance-style palace only to find it was temporarily CLOSED due to some fragile exhibit! What good is it if no one can see it? I was so sad to waste part of our LAST DAY in Paris commuting to a closed museum. Sigh. We fast forwarded our plans for the rest of the day and head over to Opera to do some real-time fashion exploration ala department stores! We first stopped in Uniqlo, a Japanese clothing store known for high quality casual wear at low prices. Apparently, it only just opened here in Paris last week and it was insane...MOB insane, we moved like cattle into the store. The line-up to pay was wrapped around the edges of the store, with a helpful staffer holding a "line ends here" sign 3 walls away from the cashiers. Thankfully, they see to have adopted Japanese efficiency because the line moved quickly. By the time we left, there was a line-up just to get into the 3 level store.
We made our way over to Au printemps for some last chance shopping. Shopping in Paris really is amazing, always the latest styles and colours in every brand imaginable. Department stores feature uber high end to affordable and fashionable options...love love love. After some thorough browsing of clothes, shoes, bags, and accessories galore, we made our way back to the gourmet gallery at Lafayette across the street. One of our priorities for the day was to pick up some cheap wine and champagne to bring home, and also some more pate for the plane ride. I wish we could just freeze a bunch and take it home, but we'll just have to savour the last of it tomorrow as we fly back over the Atlantic.
We decided for once to try out one of the restaurants recommended in the Eyewitness Guide in the Opera district; but of course, we found it closed. Luckily, the concierge at the hotel it was attached to was very helpful and recommended a lovely french bistro not far away, Auberge St. Roche. It was a cute little restaurant indeed, and hidden down a side street that we never would have found on our own; in the end, we feel blessed that our original plans didn't work out but ended up trying something more local. Most of the restaurants here offer 3 course prix fix, and you choose the options. To start, Tony could not help but have foie gras since it was our last dinner in Paris! I had escargot served with french wild mushrooms in a cream sauce. For mains, I had swordfish, which caused me hesitation at first because it is generally tough, but at the auberge it was good - solid yet tender and seasoned just right. Perhaps the swordfish I have had in the past was just always overcooked. Tony had veal medallions in a light cream sauce, which was also delicious. We were sure one of us had to have veal since there were 3 different options on the menu - had to he a house special, right? We couldn't pass up dessert and had creme brulee and profiteroles. We both agreed they couldn't compare to the dessert we had at Coup d'Etat the first night (pannacotta and tiramisu) or the amazing apple crumble I had last night; but nonetheless, it was enjoyable.
After the late dinner, we made our slow stroll back to the hotel. Again, love how convenient everything is relative to where we are staying and how beautiful the city is to walk at night! I would come back to this location in a heartbeat, walking distance to most of the areas we have been this past week - there's no better way to enjoy the city.
Alas, we have to say au revoir to Paris tomorrow. One last meal, and maybe a last chance at some sort of museum in the morning? Over lunch, we both reflected on how relaxing our week has been - we would wake up and then decided where to go based on weather, walked to different sites and markets, found food as we went, and shopped as we liked. Feels like a life we could enjoy everyday. Europe, maybe you are in our future afterall...
Paris has a museum for everything and everywhere, but we haven't made it to any on this trip, always waiting for a rainy day to do indoor stuff. At the tower yesterday, I noticed a fashion museum I had not seen before: the Musee Galliera, housing the evolution of fashion through the years and its significance to the city. We chose this one over the fashion and textile museum close to the Louvre since the building exterior was so beautiful, not knowing much about either. We made our way to the lovely renaissance-style palace only to find it was temporarily CLOSED due to some fragile exhibit! What good is it if no one can see it? I was so sad to waste part of our LAST DAY in Paris commuting to a closed museum. Sigh. We fast forwarded our plans for the rest of the day and head over to Opera to do some real-time fashion exploration ala department stores! We first stopped in Uniqlo, a Japanese clothing store known for high quality casual wear at low prices. Apparently, it only just opened here in Paris last week and it was insane...MOB insane, we moved like cattle into the store. The line-up to pay was wrapped around the edges of the store, with a helpful staffer holding a "line ends here" sign 3 walls away from the cashiers. Thankfully, they see to have adopted Japanese efficiency because the line moved quickly. By the time we left, there was a line-up just to get into the 3 level store.We made our way over to Au printemps for some last chance shopping. Shopping in Paris really is amazing, always the latest styles and colours in every brand imaginable. Department stores feature uber high end to affordable and fashionable options...love love love. After some thorough browsing of clothes, shoes, bags, and accessories galore, we made our way back to the gourmet gallery at Lafayette across the street. One of our priorities for the day was to pick up some cheap wine and champagne to bring home, and also some more pate for the plane ride. I wish we could just freeze a bunch and take it home, but we'll just have to savour the last of it tomorrow as we fly back over the Atlantic.
We decided for once to try out one of the restaurants recommended in the Eyewitness Guide in the Opera district; but of course, we found it closed. Luckily, the concierge at the hotel it was attached to was very helpful and recommended a lovely french bistro not far away, Auberge St. Roche. It was a cute little restaurant indeed, and hidden down a side street that we never would have found on our own; in the end, we feel blessed that our original plans didn't work out but ended up trying something more local. Most of the restaurants here offer 3 course prix fix, and you choose the options. To start, Tony could not help but have foie gras since it was our last dinner in Paris! I had escargot served with french wild mushrooms in a cream sauce. For mains, I had swordfish, which caused me hesitation at first because it is generally tough, but at the auberge it was good - solid yet tender and seasoned just right. Perhaps the swordfish I have had in the past was just always overcooked. Tony had veal medallions in a light cream sauce, which was also delicious. We were sure one of us had to have veal since there were 3 different options on the menu - had to he a house special, right? We couldn't pass up dessert and had creme brulee and profiteroles. We both agreed they couldn't compare to the dessert we had at Coup d'Etat the first night (pannacotta and tiramisu) or the amazing apple crumble I had last night; but nonetheless, it was enjoyable.After the late dinner, we made our slow stroll back to the hotel. Again, love how convenient everything is relative to where we are staying and how beautiful the city is to walk at night! I would come back to this location in a heartbeat, walking distance to most of the areas we have been this past week - there's no better way to enjoy the city.
Alas, we have to say au revoir to Paris tomorrow. One last meal, and maybe a last chance at some sort of museum in the morning? Over lunch, we both reflected on how relaxing our week has been - we would wake up and then decided where to go based on weather, walked to different sites and markets, found food as we went, and shopped as we liked. Feels like a life we could enjoy everyday. Europe, maybe you are in our future afterall...
Friday, October 16, 2009
Paris 2009: A View of the Beautiful City
Day 7: Paris is such a beautiful city. Everyday, I marvel at how amazing the architecture is, and how even the oldest buildings have such charm. Over the years, I think Paris has also become more "clean." Today was very sunny so we decided to make our way to the Eiffel Tower.
We walked down to the tower from Trocadero, where the Palais de Chaillot is. That view, if you have not taken it before, is better than anywhere else. By night, many of the photos you see of the tower featuring fountains are those in front of Palais de Chaillot. Like the Louvre, I had forgotten how stunning the tower is. Did you know it was initially built as a temporary structure? I'm not sure what taking it down would have been like, but now, it is stands as the symbol of Paris. Seeing it by night from the top of the Arc was beautiful, and by day, against the blue sky, it was even more magnificent. We took the elevator all the way to the top terrace of the Eiffel Tower and marveled at how BIG and beautiful the city is. It was breathtaking and I am glad we made the day trip - my last time up the tower was just at night. Both are worthwhile! Words and pictures don't capture what it is like to experience the city from the tower.
We found ourselves in St. Germain for dinner with Tony's friend Megan, who has lived inParis for a couple years. She took us to a young, hip place for locals named Cinq-Mars. It was very comfy and social. We started with kirs to drink, blackcurrent with white wine, which I loved - expect it at our Christmas party this year! To start, we had the daily special of mushroom soup, which was served with a large bowl and ladel for sharing, along with a house terrine made with beef, served like a meatloaf for the table to share. It was a very homey experience! For mains, Tony and I had seabass with spinach in cream sauce, and a house pork sausage with mashed potatoes. For dessert, I had an amazing...AMAZING...apple crumble with creme fraiche. It was better than any apple crumble I have ever had, I feel like I always have to have it with creme fraiche from now on. Tony ordered a chocolate mousse, which was literally a giant bowl of chocolate!! Megan had a unique meringue served on cream with almonds. I have developed a new appreciation for French desserts since being here, because they are always delicious but not too sweet at all! They always taste amazing and light without being overwhelmingly sugary, an appropriate end to our meals without being too heavy.
We took a leisurely walk back home, across the river and through the Louvre - beautiful by night, especially without all the crowds! I don't think I can ever get enough of the Louvre. We only have one more full day in Paris tomorrow...so many options. If it's nice maybe we will wander some more neighbourhoods, or if it is cold or raining, maybe we will step into a museum or two after all!
We walked down to the tower from Trocadero, where the Palais de Chaillot is. That view, if you have not taken it before, is better than anywhere else. By night, many of the photos you see of the tower featuring fountains are those in front of Palais de Chaillot. Like the Louvre, I had forgotten how stunning the tower is. Did you know it was initially built as a temporary structure? I'm not sure what taking it down would have been like, but now, it is stands as the symbol of Paris. Seeing it by night from the top of the Arc was beautiful, and by day, against the blue sky, it was even more magnificent. We took the elevator all the way to the top terrace of the Eiffel Tower and marveled at how BIG and beautiful the city is. It was breathtaking and I am glad we made the day trip - my last time up the tower was just at night. Both are worthwhile! Words and pictures don't capture what it is like to experience the city from the tower.
We found ourselves in St. Germain for dinner with Tony's friend Megan, who has lived inParis for a couple years. She took us to a young, hip place for locals named Cinq-Mars. It was very comfy and social. We started with kirs to drink, blackcurrent with white wine, which I loved - expect it at our Christmas party this year! To start, we had the daily special of mushroom soup, which was served with a large bowl and ladel for sharing, along with a house terrine made with beef, served like a meatloaf for the table to share. It was a very homey experience! For mains, Tony and I had seabass with spinach in cream sauce, and a house pork sausage with mashed potatoes. For dessert, I had an amazing...AMAZING...apple crumble with creme fraiche. It was better than any apple crumble I have ever had, I feel like I always have to have it with creme fraiche from now on. Tony ordered a chocolate mousse, which was literally a giant bowl of chocolate!! Megan had a unique meringue served on cream with almonds. I have developed a new appreciation for French desserts since being here, because they are always delicious but not too sweet at all! They always taste amazing and light without being overwhelmingly sugary, an appropriate end to our meals without being too heavy.
We took a leisurely walk back home, across the river and through the Louvre - beautiful by night, especially without all the crowds! I don't think I can ever get enough of the Louvre. We only have one more full day in Paris tomorrow...so many options. If it's nice maybe we will wander some more neighbourhoods, or if it is cold or raining, maybe we will step into a museum or two after all!
Zurich Side Trip...and Random Thoughts on Travel
Day 5: I love traveling by train - it is convenient, easy and reliable. If the train leaves at 8am, you just have to show up before it leaves; mind you, if you're running late, you would be out of luck, there is no 'delay.' We caught a direct train from Paris to Zurich to visit my aunt and her family, 4 short hours away. Travel in Europe is just so easy, and now that Switzerland has joined the EU, there isn't even a mandatory passport check on the train anymore. I wish we could always just hop on a train and cross countries! I've always just showed up a couple days before and bought a ticket with no issues.
We arrived in Zurich shortly after lunch, with the train emptying along the way in Strasbourg and Basel. Our first stop was an old Spanish tapas restaurant with my aunt for some lunch - some meatballs, seafood, rabbit and best of all, a chicken liver omlette. The egg was sooo fluffy! We spent the rest of the afternoon wandering old Zurich, with some shopping and tea stops along the way. Zurich is an incredibly clean city, not crowded, and the people are polite and multicultural. It is an easy place to travel and live. As a bonus, English is also one of the 4 official languages!
My aunt spoiled us with an amazing home cooked meal: ostrich, ribs falling off the bone, chinese mushrooms and fresh bok choi, and chestnut chicken wings. Who can't use a loving home cooked meal after a week on the road? It was nice to spend the evening catching up with family and just taking it easy. We head back out to Zurich city the next day to do some wandering on our own, mostly in "new" Zurich, including a stop at Jemoli department store for lunch, I had bratwurst while Tony had a falaffel. I adore Zurich and this being my 4th time visiting I could go again and again - doesn't hurt to have family to visit of course. It is always green and beautiful! The one major downside is eating is generally very expensive.
Having another 4 hour trip back to Paris gave me time to reflect on some things we've learned and things that have helped our travels:
1. My aunt, the avid shopper, reflected that "thanks" to globalization, shopping in foreign countries isn't what it used to be. Zara, H&M, Mango...they are everywhere! You really have to look for local shops and boutiques to see and experience local fashion.
2. Department stores are always reliable for washrooms and food, either in the basement floor or on the top floor, and always with many options. This has been almost fail proof for us in both Japan and Paris! Japan's department stores were lined with restaurants while most of the department stores here in Europe have small markets or cafeterias for snack stops.
3. I was reminded in Zurich that Starbucks is always reliable for clean washrooms and AC (yesterday we actually needed heat, but regardless, it is always a good spot to stop and refresh!). Familiarity is a good thing.
4. Out of respect, you should always attempt the language - no one can blame you for trying! While our bad French has often elicited responses in English, many also have done their best to help us understand what they are trying to say in French, and it is all very cordial. We've had nothing but good experiences here and have never felt like strangers or uncomfortable in the city.
5. The closer you are to a tourist hot spot, the worse value the food is, if not poor in taste! Walk a block and you will already have better options!
6. A good old fashioned paper map > GPS.
We arrived in Zurich shortly after lunch, with the train emptying along the way in Strasbourg and Basel. Our first stop was an old Spanish tapas restaurant with my aunt for some lunch - some meatballs, seafood, rabbit and best of all, a chicken liver omlette. The egg was sooo fluffy! We spent the rest of the afternoon wandering old Zurich, with some shopping and tea stops along the way. Zurich is an incredibly clean city, not crowded, and the people are polite and multicultural. It is an easy place to travel and live. As a bonus, English is also one of the 4 official languages!
My aunt spoiled us with an amazing home cooked meal: ostrich, ribs falling off the bone, chinese mushrooms and fresh bok choi, and chestnut chicken wings. Who can't use a loving home cooked meal after a week on the road? It was nice to spend the evening catching up with family and just taking it easy. We head back out to Zurich city the next day to do some wandering on our own, mostly in "new" Zurich, including a stop at Jemoli department store for lunch, I had bratwurst while Tony had a falaffel. I adore Zurich and this being my 4th time visiting I could go again and again - doesn't hurt to have family to visit of course. It is always green and beautiful! The one major downside is eating is generally very expensive.
Having another 4 hour trip back to Paris gave me time to reflect on some things we've learned and things that have helped our travels:
1. My aunt, the avid shopper, reflected that "thanks" to globalization, shopping in foreign countries isn't what it used to be. Zara, H&M, Mango...they are everywhere! You really have to look for local shops and boutiques to see and experience local fashion.
2. Department stores are always reliable for washrooms and food, either in the basement floor or on the top floor, and always with many options. This has been almost fail proof for us in both Japan and Paris! Japan's department stores were lined with restaurants while most of the department stores here in Europe have small markets or cafeterias for snack stops.
3. I was reminded in Zurich that Starbucks is always reliable for clean washrooms and AC (yesterday we actually needed heat, but regardless, it is always a good spot to stop and refresh!). Familiarity is a good thing.
4. Out of respect, you should always attempt the language - no one can blame you for trying! While our bad French has often elicited responses in English, many also have done their best to help us understand what they are trying to say in French, and it is all very cordial. We've had nothing but good experiences here and have never felt like strangers or uncomfortable in the city.
5. The closer you are to a tourist hot spot, the worse value the food is, if not poor in taste! Walk a block and you will already have better options!
6. A good old fashioned paper map > GPS.
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